EVEN MORE PHOTOS!!!

Remember a week ago, when I told you about my journey to find the Golden Spruce? That's not a naked Sasquatch... nope... that's my old man body. Don't let your kids see this...
We sat at the beach and thought about what we did. Marc's having a hard time. He's sad that after today, its back to 'real' life... boooo

Pretty cool eh!!! My bike is a cyborg sent back from the future. It's been re-programmed to film... and love.

This is what you call high-tech filming. The budget for this shoot was a 1.95. It took 4 hours to set up. Dafne is dry... and although smiling... wants to bury me in the sand.

Meal fit for a king. The meal was crafted for the Green Traveller. Stomach (Marc) ate in between shots. You can't see his face, but he's smiling.

Random pics of the final leg!!!

It's been awhile. And although I was going to start narrating the next leg of our journey... I realized my last post did NOT include photo's. Since I don't think that's fair. Today's special post harkens back to a sunnier time on Haida Gwaii!!! Enjoy. My newest update is coming shortly. I'll be sharing my latest works, and also enlightening ya'll with my neato green travel finds!!!!

Hi, I'm Marc Buzzell. I'm the guy that's going to make magic happen. I film, edit, and love poutine. My wife looks like Rob's wife, because their twins. Although Rob's wife is hotter than mine...

For 4 weeks, we went without Tim Horton's. I managed to find a coffee cup... and play pretend. Inside...? boat coffee :(

THIS LOVELY LADY!!! The third part of our zany team. DAFNE ROMERO extroardinaire. Funny, lively, and a great cook (and filmmaker).


After many weeks, we could still give each other man-hugs. Notice the small space between us. That's because of the 4 weeks of 'man-stink'

Dude this bike is AMAZING... Dafne hired a fella to weld this arm on. It created the most amazing shots known to man. My fat face closeup... while biking in the rain. I like the rain, because no one could tell I was crying.

Final leg + a Dafne!!!

After four days of kayaking through Gwaii Haanas. Many more adventures lie ahead. 120+ kilometers of highway, a golden spruce and a spectacular beach. Read on my friends, read on...


It's safe to say, Marc and I were getting tired. We'd been shooting for 3 weeks at this point, and still had plenty of adventures ahead of us. I remember feeling mentally, emotionally and physically tired... and was getting pretty homesick... but I knew I had to keep the momentum going.


We arrived back at Skidegate landing on September 8th. The plan was to hop on a bike and head to Tlell for the "Edge of the World Music Festival." We hopped off the Ferry at 7 PM. We had only a few hours to get back on the road to make it 40 KM to Tlell. First though, we were to meet up with the third portion of our team. Dafne Romero.



Dafne is pretty amazing. She's a well trained filmographer with a resume background 3 pages long. She's originally from Mexico, went to film school in Canada, and eventually made her way here to Haida Gwaii. Not only is she the driving force behind many film projects on the island, she also is an avid seaweed harvester and makes kelp soap. She had heard about the Green Traveller, and called me up at my home a few months back and asked how she could become a part of the project. Being that she had years of film experience, and amazing insight into Haida Gwaii, we quickly agreed to bring her onboard. Man was she ever a god-send. Not only would her wealth of knowledge help us along the way, but her contacts on the island were/are impressive. On more than one occasion, we'd escape the torrential rain by her simply calling up a friend along the way. Impressed? You bet!!!


That evening we burned to Dafne's house. Marc and I had days of "Man-stink" to wash off, so we took the time to shower up and repack. Our newest partner left us for a spell to pick up a little surprise. Unbeknownst to us, she had been working on something special for our shoot. She equipped a mountain bike with the most amazing piece of equipment. Basically, it is a metal arm to hold a camera. It's mounted on the handlebars, this innovation we'd quickly learn would give us some of the best shots of the trip.


After packing our things, loading the bikes, we later made our way to Tlell. We decided to stay at our friend Jo's (Green Coast Kayaking) cabin. Not only did Jo guide us through Gwaii Haanas, she also let us stay at her home while she was away. We first unpacked our gear at the cabin, and made our way to the "Edge of the World" music festival just up the highway.


I had NO clue what to expect. I've been to many music festivals in northern British Columbia before. I assumed that this would be just like any other, but was I ever wrong.


When I first arrived at the festival grounds, I walked through an arch. Suspended above the arch was a handmade sign, and colourful lights. Facing inward were a number of food and arts vendors. Directly in front to my right was a massive stage for the performers. Hundreds of people were huddled about at the various vendors and in front of the stage. As I walked around, I noticed a sign directing me to the "Workshop" tent. It is here I would later learn some basic folk dance moves, and about hula hoop making. In the center of the grounds, various stations were set up. I tried my hand at making large bubbles... but I'm a rather impatient fellow and quickly moved on. Not far from there, I noticed a bunch of kids hula-hoopin.' I walked up, grabbed a hula hoop and gave it a whirl. I quickly learned that Hula Hooping isn't for everybody... actually I learned Hula Hooping isn't for me.


As the day turned to night, coloured lights strewn around the open grounds illuminated the festivities. I noticed people congregating at a corner building. Each person was holding a pole with a different paper lantern. They then marched in single file throughout the writhing bodies in front of the stage, and around the entire festivities. The sight is both surreal, and astonishing.


At one point, Marc leaves to look for the beer vendor, but to no avail. The neatest thing about the "Edge of the World Festival?" It is a pure family event. That would explain why we would still see kids out with their parents til the midnight hour.

The next day, Marc and I had a nice sleep in. We awoke, though, to what was inevitable. Although we had been blessed by sunny skies for virtually our whole shoot... the reality of the weather was about to set in. Haida Gwaii and the Northcoast are essentially rainforests. As I peered out the cabin windows at Jo's place, I saw the rain return, and thanked my lucky stars that I packed extra rain gear.

We were on our way to Port Clements, but not before heading to the Pesuta. Basically the Pesuta is an old log barge that grounded on East Beach in the early 1900's. A cable towing the barge snapped during a winter storm while on the Hecate Strait. It takes us two hours to walk to the remote beach, but we are in for a treat. The weather conditions, although torrential, paint the perfect scene when we arrive. Waves crash into the beach... white ocean foam can be seen on the sandy edge. A fine mist falls from the grey puffy clouds. The wind rips into us uncontrollably. The wind is so loud, I have trouble hearing my co-workers. It's perfect.

After a four hour ordeal (and some wicked shots), Dafne, Marc and I head on down the highway. We make way for Port Clements before camping inside a gazebo overnight to keep dry and warm.

The next morning we make the short trek to another nearby location. The site of the Golden Spruce. The story behind the spruce is well known. The sacred tree was cut down in the mid-nineties, by a disgruntled logger. Needless to say the world got pissed off, the guy was charged, and he mysteriously disappeared shortly after. When we arrived at the site, we wondered just what I would say to the camera. Do I give the history of the golden spruce? Do I speak about its cultural significance? I was not sure... that is until we got there.

When you walk up the trail, there is a sign that directs you to look across the creek to where the Golden Spruce once stood. The only problem? We couldn't see it, nor the stump. We looked and looked and looked. Passerby's tell us, they couldn't figure out where it was either. So what does a Green Traveller do? He rips off all his clothes down to his skivvies and makes the brave voyage across the murky tepid slow moving waters. It sounds amazing, but it isn't. My body is soft, farmer tanned, and as I step into the water I slip and fall. Eventually I would heave my semi-naked body onto the opposite shore... find the spruce... but lose my dignity in the process...

After we finished up there, we headed to Massett, and thereafter Towhill.

The bike ride to Massett is pretty cool. There is not a lot of traffic, but for the few cars I see, the lot of deer makes up for it. Along the quiet highway, all I can think about is the black bear. what happens if I see one? Do I turn around? Do I make a lot of noise? Do I stop and wait for it to go? For the love of Haida Gwaii, I don't see one. The ride to Massett is pretty flat... along the way I sing to myself, and enjoy the serene ride to the northern tip. For this portion of my trek, not a single raindrop falls.

Dafne and Marc are ahead of me working out a place to stay. There was no doubt it would rain again, and so they feverishly looked for a few of Dafne's contacts in the North. We would stay that night at a wonderful lady's house, named Kelli.

Not only does Kelli live near Towhill, she runs one of the best restaurants on the island (if not northern BC). The next day, I get up, and we plan to have her restaurant in the shoot. The reason being? Her business was built with her own two hands. The building is made up of recycled material, and Kelli uses her own grown produce from her garden and nearby rhubarb bed. Its everything we are looking for on the Green Traveller.

The meal is an amazing 4 course meal. For starters I have the most amazing hummus and homemade pita bread. The next course is herring eggs on kelp with salad. After that, a crab melt followed by a scrumptious rhubarb/raspberry pie. DELIGHTFUL. In between filming, Marc and Dafne test the goods. We all agree.. its amazing.

After eating up, we head down the road to another bakery. Moon over Naikoon is a neat little eatery on the way to North beach. Its tucked against the dirt road, amidst large standing trees. At its entrance, are massive whale bones. There is no power inside. The property uses wind energy as its primary source of power. The chocolate cake is to die for.

Afterwards, we head to Towhill. I wasn't looking forward to this, not knowing what to expect. After a short (but steep) hike, I'm treated to the best view on the island. Following that, we climb down the other side to the "Blowhole." The blowhole is a natural formation along the ocean edge in a layer of rock. Basically, over the years, the water created a hole in the underside of the rock. Underneath is a kind of cave that exits at our feet. On this day though, the blowhole is not doing a lot of blowing. It's kind of disappointing.

On our last day we head to North Beach. Cloud covers most of the sky. IT looks like we may be rained out on our last shoot. We decide to set up anyway. We put up tarps to protect the equipment. for this final shoot, Marc and I decide to just have a long discussion about our whole journey and the things we learned along the way. One topic comes up though. What will be the final image of this pilot? What image will we leave the viewers with? We pondered on that for awhile... then something amazing happened. As we were talking, the clouds near towhill opened up. Opposite that, down the beach... the most amazing rainbow arched down onto the beach below. We knew then what our final shot would be. With the camera's rolling, i walk into the horizon towards the rainbow. Trailing behind me is Marc. He catches up and we walk off into the distance. Beautiful.

On the way back we notice a number of dead sea life littering the beach. I wasn't sure what they were. I find out they are dead Humboldt squid. I count 28 within 100 meters. I would later learn that the squid are not native to Haida Gwaii. In fact they live normally off the coast of California and Mexico. A strange El Nino phenomenon has seen them come up as far as Haida Gwaii... where they've washed up in the hundreds. I'm thinking Calamari. The hundreds of flies though change my way of thinking.

As we wrap up our gear... The only question we have is... where to next?


***Coming up next.... What happens with our Green Traveller shoot from here on in? Some insight into what Marc/Dafne/I have planned in the months ahead.

Wanna know a secret...????

I've never kayaked a day in my life.

In fact, as I prepared for the Green Traveller shoot this weighed heavy on my mind. Before we set off I had a couple of goals. Number one was to get in better shape. Number two was to learn how to kayak. I didn't achieve what I wanted with goal number one, but I did get in a couple kayaking sessions with a kayaking instructor weeks in advance. So as I headed into Gwaii Haanas I only had two lessons under my belt, and had only been on an ocean kayak once. So we'll just say, I was a little worried about the next leg of our trek.

After a few days in and around Skidegate and Queen Charlotte city, Marc and I were off. We had met with our kayaking group the night before to go over a few things. The neatest thing about the outfit we went with, is that it was a new kayaking company. The owner had many years of kayaking experience with one particular company, but when the owner passed away... she took up the reins and started her own company.

Green Coast Kayaking is not like many other tour groups. On each tour, the participants are all expected to participate in community meals. Marc and I were to bring some dried food, and various things like powder milk, and potatoes. The group size' are small and intimate... and Jo (the owner) is a wealth of knowledge. She lives year-round in a small cabin near Tlell. She is not an original Haida Gwaii'n, but her love of the island has made her one. She talks fondly about the wildlife, and her love of kayaking throughout Gwaii Haanas. Her enthusiasm is unlike I've ever come across. What I'd learn, is that her enthusiasm is genuine, and although she's paddled many times through the park, she can't hide her excitement about doing what she loves in this magical place.

(I'm Robert. Me KAYAK)

On the day we set off, we pack all our items into dry bags, then make our way to the local ferry. From Skidegate landing, you have to take a small ferry across to Sandspit. It is on the other side we are picked up by a transport group (Moresby Explorers). Again, on this day the sun is shining. I do notice though that a haze begins to settle in the low lying valleys, and in the channel separating the northern and southern island. (I'd learn later that forest fire smoke from the massive interior blazes were making their way over here. Its believed that THIS haze is a result of fires in Alaska).

After a short drive we arrive at the Moresby Head office, re-load and head to our launch point at Moresby camp. I've said many times our goal was to travel green, but we'd quickly learn that we again we would have to rely on dirty fuels to get where we wanted to go. At Moresby camp, we loaded our kayaks and gear into a massive zodiac, and hopped in at a nearby launch site. Heron is the owner of the Moresby company, he also is escorting us on this day into the park. He tells us the amount of fuel it takes to transport us in and out of Gwaii Haanas.... It's roughly 500 litres of fuel!!!! Jaw dropping...

(Marc at the front of the Zodiac, shooting as we whiz down a narrow channel)

After the initial carbon negative shock, we're off. The speed of the zodiac is incredible. We rip through the channel, and south to our first destination - Merchison Island. The islands and mountains stretch upwards all around us. The green is blinding. The hazy smoke has really settled in, but its not enough to disguise the natural beauty of Gwaii Haanas. Along the way we see countless Eagles, jumping sockeye, Ravens, seals... but no whales:(

After roughly a couple of hours we arrive at our first camp spot. The idea is we'll set up camp, then paddle a half hour to Hotspring Island. After a short set up and lunchtime nibble, we load up our boats and make our way across. For the first portion of our trek, I'm in a single kayak, and Marc rides in a double kayak to ensure he gets the best ocean shots. The paddling is easier than I anticipate, and after a few adjustments, I am paddling like a pro - although an "Eskimo roll" is out of the question.

(Paddling through some massive kelp beds)

As we land at Hotspring Island, we can see another zodiac style boat in the water. We paddle past it, and make our way to the shore. From this area we cannot see the hotsprings... only a beach, and a trail into the forest. We get out of our kayaks... and slowly walk into the forest.

On both sides of the path are white shells. I'm told that the Haida bring huge loads of shells to each of the "Watchmen" sites all the way from North beach (northern tip of the island), and they lay shells on the sides of the path to mark the trails. When it gets dark, you can actually still see your way down the path.

As we walk down the trail, we are shown huge fallen spruce trees. Their roots are MASSIVE. One of the group members Olav sees some unique fungi growing on a tree. We learn that its called "Chicken of the Woods." Morgan, our other guide, and Jo pick some for our dinner. As we walk further down the trail, Jo radios' down to the Watchmen. They are the environmental stewards of the island. They are Haida people, trained to watch over key sites in Gwaii Haanas. They protect the artifacts, interact with curious tourists, and maintain and preserve the local environment. They are also just straight up nice people.

As the trail opens up, I can see various structures. To the left is a modern cabin... to the right are a number of changing rooms, and paths up to three picturesque hotspring locations. We're told that in the old days, Haida used to avoid the springs... because of the strange nature of these misty boiling waters that sprang from the earth. Later on, they were revered for their supposed healing properties. Nowadays, they're a prime tourism destination in the park... And one of the best places to soak for a spell.

Marc and I rip out the camera equipment and start shooting up a storm. The clear blue sky is an amazing backdrop to the rocky geothermal waters, and steam. As I peel off my layers of clothes, i quickly realize that I wished I would have worked out just a little bit harder... Not only that, but because of my "belly shame" I have the craziest farmers tan. Thank goodness I'm married... sigh.

(Don't judge me... The camera adds 10 pounds)

Each pool is warmer than the next. The final pool of water, closest to the ocean is so hot, I can only bear to stand in it for a few seconds. After a frustrating couple of takes, I jump into the pool of water - scald my nads, and quench the audio equipment. Marc, my cameraman is NOT impressed.

We do take some time to unwind. We also do an interview with one of the Watchmen about her role in the area. She's a younger lass, and basically tells us she has the best job in the world. I try to apply as the local pool boy.. but alas, I'm denied. (You have to be Haida to be a Watchmen).

After soaking, we quickly make our way back. The Sun is quickly falling, and we have to pick up the pace or risk paddling in the dark. By the time we arrive on the beach, its already dusk. I'm a little worried, but I quickly learn I'm about to embark on one of the most memorable moments of my life.

By the time we paddle out into the wide open ocean, it is pitch dark. The moon is very full though, and it is by moonlight we paddle back to Merchison Island. Visibility is amazing... the soft lumbering swells rock the kayaks ever so softly as we power it across. Every once in awhile, I stop paddling and just listen to the absolute silence as I bobble on top of the vast darkness. I can see the silhouettes of my companions to my right, and I'm in absolute heaven as I continue forward. It's the stuff you find in poems.

Eventually we find our way to our camp, hop into our tents (which are nestled in mass beds of moss) and fall asleep.

The next morning we get up for a nice big campfire breakfast, and pack our tents. Today is our first big paddle of the trip, and I'm super excited. We load up our kayaks with our gear and head out. Again, the weather is blistering hot and clear. The Hecate Strait is unbelievable calm. The water is like glass... the wind ever so slight. Our goal is to paddle all the way to Windy Bay... With virtually no wind, and the tide going with us we get there in only three hours.

(Intertidal life, mere inches from my kayak, in Gwaii Haanas)

As we make our way from Merchison, we pass by the most amazing tidal life. With the sun beaming down, the clarity of the water is amazing. The starfish light up the rocks below. Fields of sea urchin can be seen from above. The waters are teaming with countless species of life.

Windy Bay was never a guarantee. It's not called Windy Bay for no reason. When the wind blows up along the Hecates, many times boats cannot get in or out. Sometimes kayakers can get stuck there for days. On this day, Mother Nature again leads the way and we paddle in with ease.

Facing the camp, I can see on the left an old longhouse (not that old... just a couple of decades) adorned with Haida art. I'm told it was a resting house for protesters who were fighting to maintain the environmental integrity of Haida Gwaii from clear cut practices. It all came to a front on the nearby Lyell Island. This protest, and the subsequent media coverage lead to the eventual co-management of the park seen today. A model agreement that allows Gwaii Haanas to remain preserved and beautiful.

Behind it, and to the right is the Watchmen cabin. In front closer to the beach is a fire pit, and sitting area. On this particular day, with the sun beaming down on our backs, its like a beautiful oasis. As we paddle closer, I can see solar panels on the roof of the Watchmen cabin. I'm told that each Watchmen site has solar panels, some have small wind towers, and grey water collection barrels. Even more amazing? The outhouses. Each site has whats called the Phoenix compost system. Basically an outhouse that you dump cedar chips into after each "use." There is no rank smell, and apparently the compost can be later used as... well... compost. Delightful.

Marc and I set up our tent closer to a water channel and creek. We gather up our things and start shooting around the island. The trail around Windy Bay is gorgeous. The trees are massive old growth, and the mossy bed is a bright green. As the sun breaks through the tree canopy... it looks like a work of art.

(The big spruce tree in "Windy Bay." Believe it or not, I didn't see it until someone told me to look up.... *smack head - IDIOT)

Along the way we are guided towards an old massive spruce tree. Believe it or not, I completely miss it. I was closely looking at the trail as It winded through the forest. As it wrapped around a bend, I asked "When do we get to this bloody spruce?" Then I looked up, and realized the bend was hugging the tree itself. Kind of embarrassing. After we finished shooting the old growth, we made our way back to camp to get ready for dinner.

I guess after weeks of being connected at the hip with my cameraman something had to give. Perhaps it was sharing a small stinky tent. Maybe Marc was getting tired of my jokes. I'm not entirely sure, but for some reason Marc and I were just not getting along on this day. After weeks of shooting, and interviewing and hanging out the band looked like it was about to break up. Then it happened. The world came crashing down around us. ONE OF US HAD LEFT THE TENT DOOR OPEN!!! I blamed him... he got mad at me for blaming him. We bickered, we raised our voices and basically sounded like a couple of 10 year old's. It probably was the pettiest and funniest argument in the history of mankind. We bickered for about five minutes and I stormed off. Five minutes later we were interviewing the Watchmen. Later we would sheepishly apologize to one another.

That evening, we all sat around a campfire and shared stories with the Watchmen. For some reason or another we started talking about the "Gogidt." Basically the Haida equivalent to the "Sasquatch." One of the local Watchmen told us a story about a family that stayed at this very site. The youth were down below and saw the "Gogidt" at the door... basically they freaked out, and the family never came back. Well, this freaked me out (I'm a scaredy cat). I recall going to the "Phoenix" (outhouse), and being on HIGH alert, but the funniest thing would happen later. As the night winded down, I went to sleep in the longhouse, Marc would come later. That evening Marc went out to use the bathroom, but when he returned he had an extremely concerned look on his face. The next morning he would tell us that he went out to pee. As he was peeing he glanced up and saw four figures duck down. Instead of investigating, he freaked out and quickly made his way back into the longhouse. From his bunk bed he could see cracks in the wall, but he says he was too afraid to look out through the cracks. The next morning he went out to look at where he saw the four figures duck down. He looked... and saw............................four bushes. Oh the silly games our minds play.

(The Green Coast Kayaking crew with the "Windy Bay" Watchmen)

The next morning, we pack up, said our goodbyes to the Watchmen and made our way to the next Watchmen site.

The next leg of the journey was the toughest. The winds were picking up. The ocean was choppy. For hours we paddled. The journey though did not come without its rewards. We circumvented one particular island, and came across some amazing caves. One of which we learned we could paddle through. With a little coaxing I rise to the challenge. It's nerve wracking, but uber cool.

(One of many shoreline caves. This cave has an entrance and exit for easy access)

Further down, we come across a school/group/congregation/herd of seals. There are also birds everywhere. Despite the beautiful oceanic scenery, we begin to tire. After a short pee break, I take a turn in the double kayak. Marc hops into the single. We paddle hard for another couple hours and we arrive at the next site. Tanu Island.

Tanu island is pretty amazing. Again there is a watchmen site. The guys there are super friendly. The watchmen guide is a younger fella. This was his first time working as a watchmen, and he was pretty excited. Nonetheless his tour was insightful, and well done. Along the way he showed us the numerous depressions where amazing longhouses once stood. We saw various totems (all horizontal) in various forms of decay. At one time, Tanu was clearly visible from the ocean, but smallpox devastated the community (like many others), and many died. The remaining survivors deserted the village, and since then nature has been claiming back what once was. The trees that now tower over the ruined village were not here before, but like the grass, and moss has grown to reclaim the land. Its both eery and beautiful to see. It kind of reminds of the Disney movie "Sleeping Beauty," when Aurora is put into a deep sleep and the castle becomes overrun with those vines. I used to love the film as a kid. Don't tell my guy friends.

The two most memorable moments about my time in Tanu happened within an hour of each other. After the tour, we were able to visit the grave sites of Bill Reid, Robert Davidson and some guy named "Charlie." I'm not kidding, there is a marker that simply says "Charlie" on it, and no one seems to know who he/she is. Bill Reid and Robert Davidson on the other hand are considered the biggest modern day innovators of Haida art. We are not allowed to shoot video here, or take pictures, but this memory will remain with me forever.

The 2ND memorable moment happened as we left Tanu island. As we packed up to go we made sure we got the Watchmen to sign our video release forms. As I went to look for the forms, I put my camera down on the beach. We then hopped into our kayaks and started paddling for our campsite at Kunga Island. By the time I arrived I realized I had left my camera on the beach. It was too late though. The tide came up, and my camera was RUINED. We radioed the Watchmen. They spent an hour looking for it, but alas.

(Filming a beach near Windy Bay. Hey Marc, you don't happen to see a digital camera do you????)

The next morning as we got ready to be picked up, the Watchmen contacted us. They had found the camera. It had been submerged in the saltwater overnight, but was still on the beach. The camera was ruined, but I would later find out the memory card remained intact. IT WAS A GREEN TRAVELLER MIRACLE!!!

Anyway at this last site in Kunga Island, it was here our zodiac operator was going to pick us up. Later that morning we were picked up and on our way back. But not before one last stop. Skedans.

Skedans is another Watchmen site. On it though are still standing totem poles. Its remarkable. Nestled on one side is a watchmen cabin, all along the front are totems lined up in various states of decay. The location is gorgeous. On one side you can see various land formations, and the ocean crashing into the rocks. Trails snake through both sides of the area. Mortuary poles can still be seen standing... and the outline of structures which were once longhouses can still be seen. Its hard to believe but hundreds used to live here. The only people here now are the two to three Watchmen who watch over the site. After a small feast on Chiton (boiled), we pack up and head back to Skidegate for the final leg of our journey.

Coming up next... A shipwreck, a meal fit for a king and the attack of the squids!!!!

Between a Balance Rock and a Rad place

When we last left the Green Traveller, he had just turned back away from the Hecate Straits. After a brief trip to "Oona River," he was back on track to Haida Gwaii. What lay before our young adventurer? Read on and find out...

With a scooter and mountain bike packed to the handlebars, we rode on board the Ferry to Skidegate landing. It was now August 1st. Our plan was to arrive later that night, set up camp and visit a number of sites near Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate.
The weather gods were smiling. Ever since the Green Travel began, there was no shortage of sunshine. Even on this morning departure, the fog was quickly clearing, and by the time we were on the open seas, clear blue skies welcomed us. After an 8 hour cruise, we arrived, and unloaded our gear. Marc sped off ahead to our campsite (Joy's campground), and I cycled my way down the highway from the landing towards Queen Charlotte City.

(Marc, Holly and Rose. We were green Travelling. They were travelling for a wedding in a green way. On two mountain bikes.)

Joy's campground is situated between Queen Charlotte city and Skidegate, and for the first few days we felt this was the best spot to make as our launch spot. The site was right next to the highway... there were no bathrooms, but the cost to camp was cheap cheap cheap. Five bucks. After an early dinner... Marc grabbed some wine and we sat on the nearby rocks with some friends who also happened to be on the island for a summer wedding they were attending. I didn't drink (because I just don't), but we chilled out by the ocean, celebrating our next leg of our trip. The sky was clear... the moon was full... and the stars shined in the millions throughout the evening. Memorable and amazing. I went to bed earlier, so I could get a good start to the day.

(Marc posing with reliable transport #1 - the Green Travellers' mountain bike between Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate)

The next morning, Marc and i awoke to the sounds of what sounded like a hundred birds. I creeped out to take a look. I was greeted to the day by a flock of Ravens... all cackling cooing and chirping about. After a quick breakfast, Marc and I decided to plan our day. Today Marc was SUPPOSED to do a media orientation at the Haida Heritage center. Well, we were wrong. Somehow with our big changes, we thought it was Monday, but it was still Sunday, so we had to revise our schedule a little bit. With a number of days before we were going to head out kayaking we decided to take it easy and pick off a number of sites each day. We decided that today we would head to "Balance Rock," and hike a local trail called "Spirit lake trail." TOMORROW we would visit the Haida Heritage center, and after that pay a visit to a local food co-op.

(Marc and the riveting footage of the balance rock. Balancing...)

I unloaded all my gear off my bike, and made my way south towards Skidegate and balance rock. It was again, a bright and sunny day. As I made my way down the highway, I revelled in the sunshine, and the strong fresh smell of the ocean hugging the road. After biking past the newly built Haida Heritage Center, and through the Skidegate community, I arrived at the well known naturally formed site. Marc sped along the road ahead of me. This would be a quick shoot. When we arrive, we walk down from the highway a short distance to the rock bed below. The windswept grey chalky rock spreads across into the ocean. Lying smack dab in the middle is the well known "Balance Rock." It's name is fairly self explanatory. How long has it been here? Not too sure. All I know is that I don't know a heck a lot about it. I asked around to see if there were some sort of back story to the rock. No one could tell me if there were any old stories that could be passed on. I half expected some cool legend story, about a mythical beast that lay its massive egg on the beach that solidified and grew roots into the rock... or a massive battle between two mythical giants. After a long battle that lasted a hundred years, one was killed by a swift blow to the head. It fell and curled up into the fetal position, and the earth grew in around it. I didn't get any cool story like that. This was it. Balance Rock, an old rock that was destined to remain balancing on into the future. The end.

(PROOF: We did make it to Spirit Lake. Note there are no bears in this picture)
Later on that afternoon in the sweltering heat, Marc and I decided to grab some refreshments and head up the Spirit Lake trail. The walkway is very well maintained. I could go on about how beautiful the hike was, but I feel it necessary to share with you something funny that happened along the way. As we made our way up the community trail, we met up with a couple making their way down. We asked if they saw any bears (I'm deathly afraid of bears... in the irrational sense).. they said no. Along the way, Marc tells me about a dream he had the other night where a friend of his was eaten by a bear. Further adding to my bear phobic hysteria, we forgot our bear spray... and well pretty much anything that we could use to fend one off. We made it all the way to the lake, but the trail became extremely narrow. We then chickened ourselves out, and turned back, but not before snapping off a couple pictures to prove we made it. Later we found out, despite the high number of black bears on Haida Gwaii, there has been NO bear attack on humans in eons. I hate you Marc.

(A delightful shoot at the BEAUTIFUL Haida Heritage Center - note my nerdy green book)

The next day, Marc woke up extra early to do a required orientation at the Haida Heritage Center. If you head into Gwaii Haanas, it is a requirement to undergo a one hour orientation about safety requirements, and all environmental considerations while in the park. I had already completed mine in advance, so I slept in. I ended up biking to the center though because we decided we may be able to do an interview with the operation manager about the center. One of the coolest things about the museum and building, is that it was designed by an architect in the lower mainland. The structure fuses together old and new, and is made up mostly of local wood. The smell of cedar permeates every room and hallway. Massive windows along the oceanside, awash the interior in natural light. On one side of the building is an open air canoe shed. On this particular day, a variety of carvers are working on a dugout canoe, and a totem pole.

(A poorly lit shot of the canoe shed. Note the totem between the dugout canoes)

Jason, graciously tours us through the building, and talks about the Haida culture, and how they were the original green travellers. There is no denying that. They harvested and subsisted on local foods of all kinds. They were master traders, and their canoe building skills were unmatched. Whereas Marc and I had attempted to cross the Hecate Strait in a sailboat... the Haida used to cross in massive canoes on big trade runs, and war missions. Truly remarkable. They ate, traded, and fought but inadvertently did so in an environmentally sustainable way!!!

After the tour, Marc and I headed back to camp to plan our next couple of days. Although we did pack some of our own foods, we thought it would be a good idea to highlight a local food co-op in Queen Charlotte City. The next day, I hopped on my trusty ol' bike and paid a visit to the Crabapple Creek facility. It is here where the newly formed food co-op was perfecting its drying capabilities. After a short interview, they gave us, dried mushrooms, seaweed and other food to take along the way. YUM YUM!!!

With our food packs ready, and Kayak trek into Gwaii Haanas just days away. We rested and packed up for the next BIG adventure!!!

(My name is MARC!!! I'm going KAYAKING!!!)


Coming up!!! Moonlight kayaking, a Watchmen or two, a heated battle in Windy Bay, and a bath in the healing pools of Hotspring Island.

Plan B - green imperfection...

So we were defeated. We turned away from the Hecate Strait, and had decided to come up with our so-called Plan B. Initially we wanted to cross, and make our way through Gwaii Haanas, before hopping into kayaks and exploring the amazing southern portion of Haida Gwaii. Alas, that was not meant to be. Gale force winds turned us back, and we decided to head back to Prince Rupert.

(Marty and Mae, doing what they do best. Run a fine ship)

Rather than head straight home, Marty and Mae (our sailboat operators and friends) thought it would be nice to check out a place called "Oona River." It is a small community situated along the coast, which was on our way back to the City of Rainbows. We thought, why not. We have time now... let's do it. So we made our way to the community not knowing what to expect.

(Marc chillin like a villian on a shorty dingy trip to a small inlet to check out butter clams)

There are roughly 40 people that live in the community. Access in and out is only by float plane, boat or ferry. During the summer months, a number of youth return to this special place to while away the hot summer days. On this particular day, we landed in the later afternoon. A number of teens were getting ready to jump into the cold waters from the dock to cool off. We filmed it, and decided that it was time to rinse off some of our dude stink by doing the same. I jumped first off the back of "Wild Abandon" (our sailboat). Marc followed suit. It was frigid, but refreshing.

Shortly after, Marc and I started to gather b-roll of this small community. The dock was quite nice. Well maintained with a short boardwalk to the community entrance. The sun was setting, and the light cascaded across the harbor front. It was GORGEOUS. Postcard pretty. Old boat wrecks could be seen in the muddy low tide, but it all was part of the simple beauty of this unique place. As Marc and I filmed, a couple of the youth told us about the best view in the whole joint. They pointed us in the direction of a small man-made lake, that had a spectacular panoramic view of the community and the ocean. It was getting quite late, but we thought we should check it out.

Marc came up with an idea. Why not grab our camping gear... fumble our way through the darkness and set up camp so we could catch on film the morning sunrise ? It was a novel idea... so we grabbed our gear and made our way into the twilight.

(walking on a gravel road away from Oona River, and into the darkness... I live)

Darkness quickly fell. It was a clear night though, and one by one stars appeared overhead. After a 45 minute hike/walk... we arrived. I set up the tent, and Marc set up the tripod of the camera. There was a fire ban, so we didn't start a fire. On this mountain top, all the trees had been previously clear cut years ago, and as a result the view was spectacular, unobstructed by living trees. We could see the wide open ocean, and the community below. It was amazing. We settled in for a rest... but then visitors came...

As we nestled into slumber, I quickly awoke to the sound of a pickup truck, and shouting. I quickly learned that the very youth that told us about the place had decided to come up themselves for a late evening swim. I fell asleep, as the teens splashed about into the late summer night.

As dawn broke (Marc filmed it) I got up, gathered my things, and marvelled at the quietness of this wonderful place. Oona River... It was not on my list of places to travel as the Green Traveller, but it was by no means a disappointment. In a way, our inability to cross the Hecate's allowed us to visit a place I may very well have never visited in my life. Bad luck brought about a neat chance encounter.

(View from the top of the mountain top, although a picture doesn't do it justice)

Later on, Marc and I packed up our things, and made our way down the mountain. Our visit was not quite over. The community had lined us up with a chance to check out their local fish hatchery.

We walked down to the "Rainbow House." It's a well known house, painted in every colour of the Rainbow. It's a place where locals sometimes gather for a coffee. We dumped our gear , and walked up the road to another home to hop on the "fish" bus. The "fish" bus is actually a donated small school bus. It was recently painted with salmon along its side. We hopped on, with a couple of other youngsters and made our way to the hatchery.

(An outside lower look at the building that houses the Oona River hatchery)

The hatchery was first conceived many years ago. Money had been granted to the community by the Provincial government, and so over three years with each grant they built up the hatchery. They now sustain it by offering various programs out of the building, and even have on site local students working in the building. In the lower portion of the building was the hatchery itself. Marc and I were given the royal tour of the various water filled tanks. In the middle were thousands of fry. Above it was a unique feeding device that would knock feed into the long tank at a number of set times throughout the day. Each of these fry would one day be let out at an adjacent creek, a short walk from the building.

(Marc filming a nearby stream where the small coho are released in the thousands)

Upstairs was a guestroom, and an amazing open learning area with a massive mural on the floor. The theme was based on the life cycle of the salmon. On the outer layer of the mural were its many predators. The design is extremely well thoughout, and very well done.

After our morning visit and tour, Marc and I make our way back to the bus to return to the "Wild Abandon." Time is running out though. By 10 AM the tides on this very day are way too low, and if we want to make it out of Oona River, we have to hoof it. As the bus winds its way through Oona River, time is running out. As we get closer to the docks, a BC Hydro work truck blocks our way. We have to get out and run. After a short sprint (fully loaded) we make it to the boat, but time is of essence. We pull the ropes, and quickly make for the channel. I closely watch two navigating arrows on the beach to ensure we are following the deepest part of the channel. Marty holds our course, and watches our depth. After a short anxiety filled exit, we make it... and head on home to Prince Rupert.

Later that day we decide to throw out the lines. We catch a coho (Marc did actually), I catch a Spring. Later that afternoon we arrive at Rushbrook dock and unpack our things.

Over the next couple of days I plan our the next leg of the journey. We are going to pack up the bikes... and hop on the Ferry. Our "production vehicle" is a small 4-stroke scooter. Marc loads it with all the camera gear, and his supplies. My mountain bike is weighed down with the tent, sleeping bags, panniers, food and supplies.

(Production vehicle with the Green Traveller fully loaded mountain bike)

On August 1st we board the ferry, and get ready for our next big "green" adventure.

To be continued... Between a Balance Rock and a cool place.

Back. Now for some time to divulge.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect, when Marc and I first set off from Terrace for our long planned green traveller project. Now that I sit here, with shooting behind us, I can safely say there was no way to expect what we've had long planned for. The things we saw, the people we met, the things we did, far exceeded our expectations. If a person could judge our "pilot" solely on footage, we'll they would be blown away.

Just a quick recap of our adventures.


We first driftboated down the Skeena river for three days. We launched in Terrace, and camped our way down til we reached Igneous creek. Prior to launch day, the weather was atrocious... rainy... and cloudy. As luck would have it, the rain held off. The patch of blue sky seemingly following us for the most part down the Skeena, and even for days after. Marc managed to capture some amazing footage, but unfortunately, we saw more people then wildlife as fishermen and women congregated on a number of riverbanks along the way.


After we landed, we camped at "Igneous," and the next morning, I biked the remaining 53 kilometers to Prince Rupert. I did have to work that week, so Marc headed out and picked up some b-roll (raw tape) of Terrace and Prince Rupert. Midweek, we hiked up Hays mountain and picked up some shots and interactions from above. It was again, warm, sunny.. gorgeous. The view that day was spectacular, and I believe it was possible to see Alaska.

The following weekend, we repacked, for the next leg of our big adventure. Sailing the Hecate Strait for Haida Gwaii!!!

We packed up that Friday, and left early. The forecast was brilliant. Sunny skies followed us as we sailed out of Prince Rupert and towards the Hecate Strait. Along the way, our sailing hosts, Marty and Mae-Jong Bowles, taught us the ropes of sailing, and being green on the wide open ocean. I learned to navigate, chart and to even take the helm of running the ship. The first day, we did not let out the sails, because of the lack of wind, but we managed to chug our way down to a place called "Spicer Island," where we planned to launch across to Haida Gwaii.

After a deep slumber, we awoke bright and early, and made our first attempt. The sky was clear. The sun was bright... but the winds proved to much. The seas were "confused." Instead of a steady rolling of the waves, we seemed to get hit from every direction. After a short battle with the ocean we turned back... but not before my cameraman Marc lost the contents of his stomache. Our amazing pancake breakfast, just hours previous, found its way into the toilet bowl. We'd have to try again tomorrow.

That afternoon, we headed to a different place called "Totem Inlet." The inlet was gorgeous. It was like a hidden ocean oasis, surrounded by various islands, and inlets. Across the way was a small mountain. The lowest portion of the mountain (more like a hill) facing us was riddled with some dense thick trees, but above that was a nice clearing to the top. Marc and I decided to take the dingy and climb it for the view.


As we crossed through the thick brush/trees, we finally made it to the clearing. Although the hillside was windswept, the ground was marshlike, with a muskeg feel. After about 20 minutes we trekked to the top until we made it to the highest clear point. From there we were treated to a panoramic view of the ocean. Just to get the legs going, I sprinted up a clear incline. From our vantage point, there were no people, no ships, no buildings... it was spectacular. After a half an hour, we headed back to fish the remainder of the day.

The next morning, captain Marty Bowles headed out on the dingy to guage what lay ahead of us as we planned our second crossing. When he returned, he was optimistic. Out past the inlet, the ocean opened up to a calm clear morning. The waters were flat and calm. We pulled anchor, and nabbed a crab trap we set the night before. What a joy it was, as we pulled up 12 crab!!! We threw back six... and still had plenty for that evening's dinner. With the glorious sun out, and a full crab trap... we were ready to try the Hecates' again. As we chugged our way out the inlet, the waters were still calm... but as we moved into the wide open sea, the waves started to roll on in. The further we went, the bigger the seas became. Far off, we could see whitecaps as the ocean churned about. After an hour, the ocean raged even worse than the day before. After a few minutes, we turned back away from the gale force winds. Our plan to cross the Hecate Strait was dashed. Disappointed, we knew we had to make a choice. Wait out the weather... or turn back now and take the ferry across. After a long discussion, we decided to turn back and head back to Prince Rupert :(


To be continued.... (the Green Traveller goes to Plan B)