When we last left the Green Traveller, he had just turned back away from the Hecate Straits. After a brief trip to "Oona River," he was back on track to Haida Gwaii. What lay before our young adventurer? Read on and find out...
With a scooter and mountain bike packed to the handlebars, we rode on board the Ferry to Skidegate landing. It was now August 1st. Our plan was to arrive later that night, set up camp and visit a number of sites near Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate.
The weather gods were smiling. Ever since the Green Travel began, there was no shortage of sunshine. Even on this morning departure, the fog was quickly clearing, and by the time we were on the open seas, clear blue skies welcomed us. After an 8 hour cruise, we arrived, and unloaded our gear. Marc sped off ahead to our campsite (Joy's campground), and I cycled my way down the highway from the landing towards Queen Charlotte City.
(Marc, Holly and Rose. We were green Travelling. They were travelling for a wedding in a green way. On two mountain bikes.)
Joy's campground is situated between Queen Charlotte city and Skidegate, and for the first few days we felt this was the best spot to make as our launch spot. The site was right next to the highway... there were no bathrooms, but the cost to camp was cheap cheap cheap. Five bucks. After an early dinner... Marc grabbed some wine and we sat on the nearby rocks with some friends who also happened to be on the island for a summer wedding they were attending. I didn't drink (because I just don't), but we chilled out by the ocean, celebrating our next leg of our trip. The sky was clear... the moon was full... and the stars shined in the millions throughout the evening. Memorable and amazing. I went to bed earlier, so I could get a good start to the day.
(Marc posing with reliable transport #1 - the Green Travellers' mountain bike between Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate)
The next morning, Marc and i awoke to the sounds of what sounded like a hundred birds. I creeped out to take a look. I was greeted to the day by a flock of Ravens... all cackling cooing and chirping about. After a quick breakfast, Marc and I decided to plan our day. Today Marc was SUPPOSED to do a media orientation at the Haida Heritage center. Well, we were wrong. Somehow with our big changes, we thought it was Monday, but it was still Sunday, so we had to revise our schedule a little bit. With a number of days before we were going to head out kayaking we decided to take it easy and pick off a number of sites each day. We decided that today we would head to "Balance Rock," and hike a local trail called "Spirit lake trail." TOMORROW we would visit the Haida Heritage center, and after that pay a visit to a local food co-op.
(Marc and the riveting footage of the balance rock. Balancing...) I unloaded all my gear off my bike, and made my way south towards Skidegate and balance rock. It was again, a bright and sunny day. As I made my way down the highway, I revelled in the sunshine, and the strong fresh smell of the ocean hugging the road. After biking past the newly built Haida Heritage Center, and through the Skidegate community, I arrived at the well known naturally formed site. Marc sped along the road ahead of me. This would be a quick shoot. When we arrive, we walk down from the highway a short distance to the rock bed below. The windswept grey chalky rock spreads across into the ocean. Lying smack dab in the middle is the well known "Balance Rock." It's name is fairly self explanatory. How long has it been here? Not too sure. All I know is that I don't know a heck a lot about it. I asked around to see if there were some sort of back story to the rock. No one could tell me if there were any old stories that could be passed on. I half expected some cool legend story, about a mythical beast that lay its massive egg on the beach that solidified and grew roots into the rock... or a massive battle between two mythical giants. After a long battle that lasted a hundred years, one was killed by a swift blow to the head. It fell and curled up into the fetal position, and the earth grew in around it. I didn't get any cool story like that. This was it. Balance Rock, an old rock that was destined to remain balancing on into the future. The end.
(PROOF: We did make it to Spirit Lake. Note there are no bears in this picture)Later on that afternoon in the sweltering heat, Marc and I decided to grab some refreshments and head up the Spirit Lake trail. The walkway is very well maintained. I could go on about how beautiful the hike was, but I feel it necessary to share with you something funny that happened along the way. As we made our way up the community trail, we met up with a couple making their way down. We asked if they saw any bears (I'm deathly afraid of bears... in the irrational sense).. they said no. Along the way, Marc tells me about a dream he had the other night where a friend of his was eaten by a bear. Further adding to my bear phobic hysteria, we forgot our bear spray... and well pretty much anything that we could use to fend one off. We made it all the way to the lake, but the trail became extremely narrow. We then chickened ourselves out, and turned back, but not before snapping off a couple pictures to prove we made it. Later we found out, despite the high number of black bears on Haida Gwaii, there has been NO bear attack on humans in eons. I hate you Marc.
(A delightful shoot at the BEAUTIFUL Haida Heritage Center - note my nerdy green book)
The next day, Marc woke up extra early to do a required orientation at the Haida Heritage Center. If you head into Gwaii Haanas, it is a requirement to undergo a one hour orientation about safety requirements, and all environmental considerations while in the park. I had already completed mine in advance, so I slept in. I ended up biking to the center though because we decided we may be able to do an interview with the operation manager about the center. One of the coolest things about the museum and building, is that it was designed by an architect in the lower mainland. The structure fuses together old and new, and is made up mostly of local wood. The smell of cedar permeates every room and hallway. Massive windows along the oceanside, awash the interior in natural light. On one side of the building is an open air canoe shed. On this particular day, a variety of carvers are working on a dugout canoe, and a totem pole.
(A poorly lit shot of the canoe shed. Note the totem between the dugout canoes)Jason, graciously tours us through the building, and talks about the Haida culture, and how they were the original green travellers. There is no denying that. They harvested and subsisted on local foods of all kinds. They were master traders, and their canoe building skills were unmatched. Whereas Marc and I had attempted to cross the Hecate Strait in a sailboat... the Haida used to cross in massive canoes on big trade runs, and war missions. Truly remarkable. They ate, traded, and fought but inadvertently did so in an environmentally sustainable way!!!
After the tour, Marc and I headed back to camp to plan our next couple of days. Although we did pack some of our own foods, we thought it would be a good idea to highlight a local food co-op in Queen Charlotte City. The next day, I hopped on my trusty ol' bike and paid a visit to the Crabapple Creek facility. It is here where the newly formed food co-op was perfecting its drying capabilities. After a short interview, they gave us, dried mushrooms, seaweed and other food to take along the way. YUM YUM!!!
With our food packs ready, and Kayak trek into Gwaii Haanas just days away. We rested and packed up for the next BIG adventure!!!
(My name is MARC!!! I'm going KAYAKING!!!)Coming up!!! Moonlight kayaking, a Watchmen or two, a heated battle in Windy Bay, and a bath in the healing pools of Hotspring Island.
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