I've never kayaked a day in my life.
In fact, as I prepared for the Green Traveller shoot this weighed heavy on my mind. Before we set off I had a couple of goals. Number one was to get in better shape. Number two was to learn how to kayak. I didn't achieve what I wanted with goal number one, but I did get in a couple kayaking sessions with a kayaking instructor weeks in advance. So as I headed into Gwaii Haanas I only had two lessons under my belt, and had only been on an ocean kayak once. So we'll just say, I was a little worried about the next leg of our trek.
After a few days in and around Skidegate and Queen Charlotte city, Marc and I were off. We had met with our kayaking group the night before to go over a few things. The neatest thing about the outfit we went with, is that it was a new kayaking company. The owner had many years of kayaking experience with one particular company, but when the owner passed away... she took up the reins and started her own company.
Green Coast Kayaking is not like many other tour groups. On each tour, the participants are all expected to participate in community meals. Marc and I were to bring some dried food, and various things like powder milk, and potatoes. The group size' are small and intimate... and Jo (the owner) is a wealth of knowledge. She lives year-round in a small cabin near Tlell. She is not an original Haida Gwaii'n, but her love of the island has made her one. She talks fondly about the wildlife, and her love of kayaking throughout Gwaii Haanas. Her enthusiasm is unlike I've ever come across. What I'd learn, is that her enthusiasm is genuine, and although she's paddled many times through the park, she can't hide her excitement about doing what she loves in this magical place.
(I'm Robert. Me KAYAK)
On the day we set off, we pack all our items into dry bags, then make our way to the local ferry. From Skidegate landing, you have to take a small ferry across to Sandspit. It is on the other side we are picked up by a transport group (Moresby Explorers). Again, on this day the sun is shining. I do notice though that a haze begins to settle in the low lying valleys, and in the channel separating the northern and southern island. (I'd learn later that forest fire smoke from the massive interior blazes were making their way over here. Its believed that THIS haze is a result of fires in Alaska).
After a short drive we arrive at the Moresby Head office, re-load and head to our launch point at Moresby camp. I've said many times our goal was to travel green, but we'd quickly learn that we again we would have to rely on dirty fuels to get where we wanted to go. At Moresby camp, we loaded our kayaks and gear into a massive zodiac, and hopped in at a nearby launch site. Heron is the owner of the Moresby company, he also is escorting us on this day into the park. He tells us the amount of fuel it takes to transport us in and out of Gwaii Haanas.... It's roughly 500 litres of fuel!!!! Jaw dropping...
(Marc at the front of the Zodiac, shooting as we whiz down a narrow channel)
After roughly a couple of hours we arrive at our first camp spot. The idea is we'll set up camp, then paddle a half hour to Hotspring Island. After a short set up and lunchtime nibble, we load up our boats and make our way across. For the first portion of our trek, I'm in a single kayak, and Marc rides in a double kayak to ensure he gets the best ocean shots. The paddling is easier than I anticipate, and after a few adjustments, I am paddling like a pro - although an "Eskimo roll" is out of the question.
(Paddling through some massive kelp beds)
As we land at Hotspring Island, we can see another zodiac style boat in the water. We paddle past it, and make our way to the shore. From this area we cannot see the hotsprings... only a beach, and a trail into the forest. We get out of our kayaks... and slowly walk into the forest.
On both sides of the path are white shells. I'm told that the Haida bring huge loads of shells to each of the "Watchmen" sites all the way from North beach (northern tip of the island), and they lay shells on the sides of the path to mark the trails. When it gets dark, you can actually still see your way down the path.
As we walk down the trail, we are shown huge fallen spruce trees. Their roots are MASSIVE. One of the group members Olav sees some unique fungi growing on a tree. We learn that its called "Chicken of the Woods." Morgan, our other guide, and Jo pick some for our dinner. As we walk further down the trail, Jo radios' down to the Watchmen. They are the environmental stewards of the island. They are Haida people, trained to watch over key sites in Gwaii Haanas. They protect the artifacts, interact with curious tourists, and maintain and preserve the local environment. They are also just straight up nice people.
As the trail opens up, I can see various structures. To the left is a modern cabin... to the right are a number of changing rooms, and paths up to three picturesque hotspring locations. We're told that in the old days, Haida used to avoid the springs... because of the strange nature of these misty boiling waters that sprang from the earth. Later on, they were revered for their supposed healing properties. Nowadays, they're a prime tourism destination in the park... And one of the best places to soak for a spell.
Marc and I rip out the camera equipment and start shooting up a storm. The clear blue sky is an amazing backdrop to the rocky geothermal waters, and steam. As I peel off my layers of clothes, i quickly realize that I wished I would have worked out just a little bit harder... Not only that, but because of my "belly shame" I have the craziest farmers tan. Thank goodness I'm married... sigh.
(Don't judge me... The camera adds 10 pounds)
We do take some time to unwind. We also do an interview with one of the Watchmen about her role in the area. She's a younger lass, and basically tells us she has the best job in the world. I try to apply as the local pool boy.. but alas, I'm denied. (You have to be Haida to be a Watchmen).
After soaking, we quickly make our way back. The Sun is quickly falling, and we have to pick up the pace or risk paddling in the dark. By the time we arrive on the beach, its already dusk. I'm a little worried, but I quickly learn I'm about to embark on one of the most memorable moments of my life.
By the time we paddle out into the wide open ocean, it is pitch dark. The moon is very full though, and it is by moonlight we paddle back to Merchison Island. Visibility is amazing... the soft lumbering swells rock the kayaks ever so softly as we power it across. Every once in awhile, I stop paddling and just listen to the absolute silence as I bobble on top of the vast darkness. I can see the silhouettes of my companions to my right, and I'm in absolute heaven as I continue forward. It's the stuff you find in poems.
Eventually we find our way to our camp, hop into our tents (which are nestled in mass beds of moss) and fall asleep.
The next morning we get up for a nice big campfire breakfast, and pack our tents. Today is our first big paddle of the trip, and I'm super excited. We load up our kayaks with our gear and head out. Again, the weather is blistering hot and clear. The Hecate Strait is unbelievable calm. The water is like glass... the wind ever so slight. Our goal is to paddle all the way to Windy Bay... With virtually no wind, and the tide going with us we get there in only three hours.
(Intertidal life, mere inches from my kayak, in Gwaii Haanas)
Windy Bay was never a guarantee. It's not called Windy Bay for no reason. When the wind blows up along the Hecates, many times boats cannot get in or out. Sometimes kayakers can get stuck there for days. On this day, Mother Nature again leads the way and we paddle in with ease.
Facing the camp, I can see on the left an old longhouse (not that old... just a couple of decades) adorned with Haida art. I'm told it was a resting house for protesters who were fighting to maintain the environmental integrity of Haida Gwaii from clear cut practices. It all came to a front on the nearby Lyell Island. This protest, and the subsequent media coverage lead to the eventual co-management of the park seen today. A model agreement that allows Gwaii Haanas to remain preserved and beautiful.
Behind it, and to the right is the Watchmen cabin. In front closer to the beach is a fire pit, and sitting area. On this particular day, with the sun beaming down on our backs, its like a beautiful oasis. As we paddle closer, I can see solar panels on the roof of the Watchmen cabin. I'm told that each Watchmen site has solar panels, some have small wind towers, and grey water collection barrels. Even more amazing? The outhouses. Each site has whats called the Phoenix compost system. Basically an outhouse that you dump cedar chips into after each "use." There is no rank smell, and apparently the compost can be later used as... well... compost. Delightful.
Marc and I set up our tent closer to a water channel and creek. We gather up our things and start shooting around the island. The trail around Windy Bay is gorgeous. The trees are massive old growth, and the mossy bed is a bright green. As the sun breaks through the tree canopy... it looks like a work of art.
I guess after weeks of being connected at the hip with my cameraman something had to give. Perhaps it was sharing a small stinky tent. Maybe Marc was getting tired of my jokes. I'm not entirely sure, but for some reason Marc and I were just not getting along on this day. After weeks of shooting, and interviewing and hanging out the band looked like it was about to break up. Then it happened. The world came crashing down around us. ONE OF US HAD LEFT THE TENT DOOR OPEN!!! I blamed him... he got mad at me for blaming him. We bickered, we raised our voices and basically sounded like a couple of 10 year old's. It probably was the pettiest and funniest argument in the history of mankind. We bickered for about five minutes and I stormed off. Five minutes later we were interviewing the Watchmen. Later we would sheepishly apologize to one another.
That evening, we all sat around a campfire and shared stories with the Watchmen. For some reason or another we started talking about the "Gogidt." Basically the Haida equivalent to the "Sasquatch." One of the local Watchmen told us a story about a family that stayed at this very site. The youth were down below and saw the "Gogidt" at the door... basically they freaked out, and the family never came back. Well, this freaked me out (I'm a scaredy cat). I recall going to the "Phoenix" (outhouse), and being on HIGH alert, but the funniest thing would happen later. As the night winded down, I went to sleep in the longhouse, Marc would come later. That evening Marc went out to use the bathroom, but when he returned he had an extremely concerned look on his face. The next morning he would tell us that he went out to pee. As he was peeing he glanced up and saw four figures duck down. Instead of investigating, he freaked out and quickly made his way back into the longhouse. From his bunk bed he could see cracks in the wall, but he says he was too afraid to look out through the cracks. The next morning he went out to look at where he saw the four figures duck down. He looked... and saw............................four bushes. Oh the silly games our minds play.
The next leg of the journey was the toughest. The winds were picking up. The ocean was choppy. For hours we paddled. The journey though did not come without its rewards. We circumvented one particular island, and came across some amazing caves. One of which we learned we could paddle through. With a little coaxing I rise to the challenge. It's nerve wracking, but uber cool.
(One of many shoreline caves. This cave has an entrance and exit for easy access)
Tanu island is pretty amazing. Again there is a watchmen site. The guys there are super friendly. The watchmen guide is a younger fella. This was his first time working as a watchmen, and he was pretty excited. Nonetheless his tour was insightful, and well done. Along the way he showed us the numerous depressions where amazing longhouses once stood. We saw various totems (all horizontal) in various forms of decay. At one time, Tanu was clearly visible from the ocean, but smallpox devastated the community (like many others), and many died. The remaining survivors deserted the village, and since then nature has been claiming back what once was. The trees that now tower over the ruined village were not here before, but like the grass, and moss has grown to reclaim the land. Its both eery and beautiful to see. It kind of reminds of the Disney movie "Sleeping Beauty," when Aurora is put into a deep sleep and the castle becomes overrun with those vines. I used to love the film as a kid. Don't tell my guy friends.
The two most memorable moments about my time in Tanu happened within an hour of each other. After the tour, we were able to visit the grave sites of Bill Reid, Robert Davidson and some guy named "Charlie." I'm not kidding, there is a marker that simply says "Charlie" on it, and no one seems to know who he/she is. Bill Reid and Robert Davidson on the other hand are considered the biggest modern day innovators of Haida art. We are not allowed to shoot video here, or take pictures, but this memory will remain with me forever.
The 2ND memorable moment happened as we left Tanu island. As we packed up to go we made sure we got the Watchmen to sign our video release forms. As I went to look for the forms, I put my camera down on the beach. We then hopped into our kayaks and started paddling for our campsite at Kunga Island. By the time I arrived I realized I had left my camera on the beach. It was too late though. The tide came up, and my camera was RUINED. We radioed the Watchmen. They spent an hour looking for it, but alas.
(Filming a beach near Windy Bay. Hey Marc, you don't happen to see a digital camera do you????)
Anyway at this last site in Kunga Island, it was here our zodiac operator was going to pick us up. Later that morning we were picked up and on our way back. But not before one last stop. Skedans.
Skedans is another Watchmen site. On it though are still standing totem poles. Its remarkable. Nestled on one side is a watchmen cabin, all along the front are totems lined up in various states of decay. The location is gorgeous. On one side you can see various land formations, and the ocean crashing into the rocks. Trails snake through both sides of the area. Mortuary poles can still be seen standing... and the outline of structures which were once longhouses can still be seen. Its hard to believe but hundreds used to live here. The only people here now are the two to three Watchmen who watch over the site. After a small feast on Chiton (boiled), we pack up and head back to Skidegate for the final leg of our journey.
Coming up next... A shipwreck, a meal fit for a king and the attack of the squids!!!!
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